Saddlefit Checklist
1. Balance
The center of the saddle should be level to the ground while on the horse's back.
No rocking front to back or side to side
The center of the saddle should be level to the ground while on the horse's back.
No rocking front to back or side to side
2. Wither Clearance
You should have 2 - 3-fingers clearance for normal withers. Horses with mutton withers will have more clearance and those with high withers will have less clearance. Important to also check the sides of the withers! The saddle should not touch the wither on the top or the side!
3. Tree Width
The panel tree points should be parallel to the shoulder angle to position the saddle properly. A tree too wide will rest on the wither and/or spine. A tree too narrow will pinch Trapezius, tilt the saddle back, create bridging and cause pressure under the rear panel
4. Gullet Channel Width
The gullet must be wide enough not to interfere with the spinal processes or musculature of the horse's back. Look for a min of 3 finger clearance
You should have 2 - 3-fingers clearance for normal withers. Horses with mutton withers will have more clearance and those with high withers will have less clearance. Important to also check the sides of the withers! The saddle should not touch the wither on the top or the side!
3. Tree Width
The panel tree points should be parallel to the shoulder angle to position the saddle properly. A tree too wide will rest on the wither and/or spine. A tree too narrow will pinch Trapezius, tilt the saddle back, create bridging and cause pressure under the rear panel
4. Gullet Channel Width
The gullet must be wide enough not to interfere with the spinal processes or musculature of the horse's back. Look for a min of 3 finger clearance
5. Panels
The bearing surface should be even front back. Turn your saddle upside down and run your flat hands down both panels. If it was a mattress... would you want to lay on it? Hard wool panels are just as uncomfortable as lumpy uneven foam panels that have peaks and valleys in them. Panels also need to fit the shape of the horses back and not perch on top.
The bearing surface should be even front back. Turn your saddle upside down and run your flat hands down both panels. If it was a mattress... would you want to lay on it? Hard wool panels are just as uncomfortable as lumpy uneven foam panels that have peaks and valleys in them. Panels also need to fit the shape of the horses back and not perch on top.
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6. Billet Alignment The billets should hang vertically the ground and over the girth area (generally one hand behind the elbow) so that the girth is positioned properly and not angled either forwards or backwards. A forwards angled billet will pull the saddle forward into the scapula or wither pockets. 6. Saddle Length The saddle should be well behind the scapula and not have weight bearing past T 18 over lumbar area. Note Scapula rotation and actual flap / tree point location on saddle. Acceptable length will also depends on panel design. 7. Static vs Motion Evaluation Saddlefit has to be evaluated both static and with rider in saddle and horse in motion. Horse response and Riders position is observed. Stability of saddle in motion is checked. Shifting, panel rocking etc Flocking (if wool!), pad or shimming recommendations are made where possible. |
Same tree size. Not the Passier on the right has a nice open head plate, vs the saddle on the left.
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Great example of different tree shapes. its not only the tree size that counts but also the shape of the tree overall
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Good examples of what A shapped, keyhole, open and hoop trees look like from the front
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